A magical moment then occurred, when my husband shouted
urgently to Fiona, ‘What’s that, behind you?’ as a dark shape moved in the
water a few meters away. She swam
towards him and turned, and both saw that it was an elephant swimming right
there in the ocean, unconcerned about the tourists, nobly skirting most
swimmers as it came into the shallows. Massive
but elegant, its trunk stuck periscopically two feet above the surface of the
water. Fiona and Daniel watched with
childish excitement, and I saw him put his arm over her shoulder. I could see the fondest of memories forming,
could feel the two of them remembering they loved each other. It was dreamlike, unreal, as the elephant
swam until the water was too shallow then proceeded to loll about in the wet
sand. Serene and self-possessed, the
beast unabashedly sloshed water and sand about.
Tourists took photographs. My
husband and daughter just stood in the water, drinking up the scene. However, the
reconciliation was to be incomplete.
Just then, a gunshot sounded, so unexpected and intense, and
the elephant shrieked shrilly. The anguish
was human, unbelievable. Two more shots
followed, with quick ferocity. The
elephant thrashed about, the wounds to the head, neck and chest – a deadly
triumvirate. Shocked tourists scattered;
Daniel and Fiona rushed towards me on the beach. We clustered on the towels, Fiona
shivering. The gunman ran out of his
vantage point among the palms, heading a gang of five men with hatchets and
machetes.
One plunged a hatchet into the elephant’s neck, as though to
ensure the murder was done. The others
dragged the front legs back, and the head upwards, giving them plenty of room
around the tusks. They viciously hacked
at the root of the left tusk first, two men holding the tusk and rocking it
back and forth. One man repeatedly
raised his machete high in the air and brought it slamming down on the side of
the elephant’s great head, uncompromising in his violence. They worked fast, in silence, so we could
hear the garish butchery. Blood mingled
with the perfect sand, a sudden and shocking confession of brutality and
desperation.
The team had removed the first tusk within ten minutes. The second was more difficult, with the
elephant’s head lying over its root. The
tourists returned to gather and bear witness to the macabre scene. The men chopped away even more
aggressively. They were all
bare-chested, blood and sweat-soaked.
Eventually, while we watched, still stricken, they yanked out the huge
right tooth. It took two men to carry
each tusk; hoisted onto their shoulders like they were bearing a coffin.
The men dashed off, disappearing into the trees, leaving the
mutilated giant on the beach, the wavelets of the receding tide lapping at its
haunches. The crowd slowly dissipated,
and the three of us went to the elephant and each touched it once on the
forehead, a shared moment of humbling melancholy.
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